The most common question I get asked on my blog is "Where can I buy such and such ingredient in London?".
Another common theme of discussion is "I want recipes with ingredients I can buy from my local supermarket". Fair enough but it is not possible all the time. Some recipes have simple common ingredients and some recipes have ingredients that can be omitted or replaced. Some time you will have to make this extra effort. You can't make hummus without tahini!
For all of those people and for every one who wants to try some Syrian/Lebanese cooking, here is a list of some essential ingredient and where to buy them in the UK.
Sumac
Sumac is a tangy, lemony flavoured spice. It is made from grounding dried sumac berries to produce a purple or deep red coarse powder. In the Levant sumac is mainly used in salads, fattoush and sprinkled over falafel. It adds a wonderful sour flavour that can even replace lemon all together. In Aleppo sumac is used in few dishes, most famously Kebbeh Sumakieh. The most famous dish cooked with sumac remains by far Musakhan, a Palastenian dish that has been adapted into local versions in every Levantine country.
In London you can buy sumac in all large Arabic, Iranian and Turkish supermarket. Damas Gate in Shepherd's Bush and Green Valley on Edgware Road are your best bet for all Arabic ingredients. You can buy it on line from The Spicery and The Spice Shop although the price is considerably higher. Alternatively you can buy it from Comptoir Lebanise on Wigmore St.
Nuts are an essential ingredient in Middle Eastern cuisine. The most commonly used are pine nuts, walnuts, almonds and pistachios roughly in that order. There are endless ways to use them, sprinkled on rice, in koftah-based dishes, in mezze, hummus topping, sweets, kibbeh, sauces, drinks ..... the list goes on and on. We pretty much use them in everything.
Nuts are widely available from all supermarkets. You don't have to make a trip to get these!
Bulgur Wheat
Bulgur wheat (or Burghul as we pronounce it in Syria) is a healthy grain made from parboiled then dried and ground wheat. Main stream UK chefs discovered bulgur in the last few years and you can see it now on menues, cooking shows and supermarket shelves. There are two varieties: coarse used in cooking pilafs and fine used in Tabbouleh and Kibbeh.
You can buy bulgur from all Middle Eastern shops. You can buy it as well from high street supermarkets but the grain size is somewhere between the coarse and fine. It is not ideal but perfectly usable.
White Cheese
All our native cheeses in the Levant are fresh white cheeses. They are made from cow or sheep milk and preserved through the year in brine. The most common are Baladi, Halloumi, Nabulsi, Akkawi and Shelal. We eat white cheese as part of breakfast and supper. It matches perfectly with cucumber, fresh mint leaves, sweet black tea or water melon in summer months. In cooking we mainly use it in fatayer and sambousek. Akkawi is the cheese of choice for sweets.
Halloumi is available in all supermarkets. The rest need a trip to a Middle Eastern shop. You can freeze white cheese if you are going to use it in cooking or sweets.
Arabic bread (Khobez or Lebanese bread as it is some time called) is the more sophisticated and higher quality brother of Pita bread. The bread is thinner, softer, easier to handle and way more tasty. In my view, pita bread should be outlawed!
You can buy Arabic bread from all Middle Eastern shops, some delicatessens and some large supermarkets especially in West London. Arabic bread freezes very well for up to a month or so.
Pomegranate molasses (Debes Rumman دبس رمان in Arabic) is one of my favourite ingredients. It adds the most beautiful sweet and sour flavour. It brings depth and warmth to many many dishes. The secret to get good results with pomegranate molasses is to use it in moderation. It is very concentrated and if you add too much it will over power the dish. In a typical dish for two a table spoon is usually more than enough.
You can buy pomegranate molasses from Middle Eastern Shops. Alternativly you can buy it from Arabica Food & Spice Co. They sell their products in Borough Market, Selfridges and Harrods among other places. On line you can order it from Melbury & Appleton.
Ghee (Samneh سمنة in Arabic) is made by simmering butter till all the water evaporate and the milk solids settle in the bottom. The clarified butter is then spooned off. Ghee differs from normal butter in taste, texture and aroma. Because there is no milk solids Ghee tolerate very high cooking temperature without burning. Syrians usually heat Ghee butter till it smokes then pour it on rice dishes at the last minute of cooking. We also use smoking hot Ghee to top hummus and Fatteh dishes.
You can by Ghee from Middle Eastern and Indian shops. Large supermarkets usually stock it, look in the ethnic food area. Ghee doesn't need refrigeration and lasts for a very long period of time.
Tahini is without a doubt my favourite ingredient. This one is irreplaceable. You can not cook Levantine/Middle Eastern food if you don't have tahini in your kitchen. It is used in many mezze and main dishes. It is used to make sauces to accompany red meat, fish, some rice dishes and falafel.
You can buy tahini from Middle eastern shops and large supermarkets, Look in the ethnic food areas next to Greek products. Tahini last a very long time outside the fridge.
Sun dried red pepper paste (Debes flafleh دبس فليفلة in Syrian Arabic) is an Aleppian speciality. It is used to make Muhammara and as an ingredient in many dishes.
Red pepper paste is very difficult to find in London. Non of the Middle Eastern shops I know stock it. In my Muhammara post I attempted to re-create my own. I finally managed to find it in a Turkish supermarket in West Ealing. If you are buying yours from a Turkish shop, look at the ingredients. Most are mixed with vegetables, tomato paste, onion or garlic which will change the taste of your cooking.
Red pepper paste will last few months in the fridge if you cover the top with a layer of olive oil.
Another Aleppian speciality, hence the name! It is made by sun drying Aleppo peppers till dry, then crushed by hand and rubbed in olive oil. It has a very nice aroma and a wonderful bright red, orange colour. The taste has some fruitiness and saltiness to it.
You can buy red flaked chillies from all Middle Eastern shops but they lack the characteristic colour and aroma, so I am not too sure about origin and authenticity. Instead I buy my Aleppo peppers on line from The Spicery.
Za'atar (زعتر in Arabic) is a name of wild herb widely available in Eastern Mediterranean areas. It is somewhere between thyme and oregano. The word Za'atar usually refer to the herbal mix made from dried Za'atar leaves, sesame seeds and salt. Other spices and flavourings can be added to create different Za'atar mixes. As a general rule, there is two variety Green Za'atar and Red Za'atar. The latter uses sumac and usually called "Aleppian Za'atar" in Damascus. The main use of Za'atar is mixed with olive oil to make a tangy dip eaten for breakfast. You can spread the mixture on flat bread dough and baked to make Mana'esh bi Za'atar (Za'atar Fatayer). You can also sprinkle Za'atar on Labneh (strained yoghurt) or white cheese.
Za'atar is available from all Middle Eastern shops. On line from Melbury & Appleton. Alternatively you can buy it from Comptoir Lebanise on Wigmore St.
Allspice (update 4/11/2009)
After a public outcry and a twitter campaign, I decided to include allspice in my essentials list. Read all about it in my previous post.
Hi Kano,
ReplyDeleteThis is a wonderfully helpful list. For anyone who lives in north or north east London, the Turkish supermarkets on Stoke Newington High street are very good for most of these ingredients (and very cheap), as is the chain of Turkish Food Centres. There's a huge one at the end of Ridley Road Market and several more dotted about the place - tfcsupermarkets.com for branches. They also have apricot paste, which I'm quite addicted too as a layer in the bottom of a chocolate tart as in the Moro recipe.
Hi,
ReplyDeleteThat's really a full list for who wants to cook Syrian food. But as an Aleppian, i think allspice (البهار) is missing !
A lovely knowledgeable, beautifully written list.
ReplyDeleteAnd inspiring me to cook with these lovely ingredients also.
Thanks for the list! I found your blog a few days ago and I love it. I was wondering - at breakfast, is zaatar is eaten sprinkled on bread with olive oil? Is it sprinkled labneh which is spread on the bread or are they eaten seperately?
ReplyDeleteOn another note, I'm looking forward to more recipes! Please, do sweets like knafeh (sp?) and other dishes. Have a beautiful day!
@Lickedspoon
ReplyDeleteThank you for sharing this information. I haven't been to Turkish shops in North East London for years. I have been planning to go check shops and ingredients on Green Lanes for some time, but too far a trip and very little time!
@Alepian
ReplyDeleteAll spice is now included in the updated list.
@Joy
ReplyDeletePleasure to have you on the blog as always
@venus
ReplyDeleteWelcome to my blog. I am delighted to like it.
At breakfast, the traditional way is to have a bowl of oil and a bowl of zaatar. You dip a piece of bread in the oil first then you dip it in the zaatar. You can of course mix them beforehand especially if you are making a sandwich. With Labneh, just spread labneh on a plate, sprinkle with zaatar and drizzle of olive oil and use your bread as a scoop.
Regarding sweets, I am not the world best sweets maker, and I do belive best Syrian sweets are those bought from a shop. Having said that, few sweet recipes are on my list to do including Knafeh. So watch this space!
thanks so much for this, very informative stuff!
ReplyDelete@gastrogeek
ReplyDeleteYou welcome!
Every time I read your blog I wind up so hungry!
ReplyDeleteBut I have to disagree w/ you on the pita issue - it's quite lovely when homemade. I also just make my own samneh when it's needed (since I really only use it to make ma'amoul), as it's so much cheaper than buying it premade.
For me, the other things I could not live without (the only one on your list I don't really use is the red pepper paste) are orange blossom water, olives and dill/mint/parsley. But mostly the olives. I can't live without them even for a week.
@Allie
ReplyDeleteI was talking about supermarket bought pita. Dry and flaky, not nice at all. I am sure home backed one will taste much better.
You reminded me of orange blossom water. Completely slipped my mind.
Oh, I totally agree. The supermarket stuff can barely even be called food!
ReplyDeleteThis is a really great list. Thanks for creating it. I have a fairly good knowledge of various foods, but I learned a lot from this.
ReplyDelete@Not Delia
ReplyDeleteYou welcome. Much appreciated.
I agree wholeheartedly that pitta bread should be banned - unenlightened 'foodies' have no idea what rubbish they are eating. I live in Gloucestershire and am starting to get withdrawal symptoms as I cannot find anywhere to buy true Arabic bread. Yesterday I tried making some flat bread myself, and although it bears little resemblance to the gorgeous stuff you get in Beirut, it is nevertheless quite delicious and far superior to the supermarket stuff, considering it was baked in a domestic oven. I even made some manoushe, mmm ...
ReplyDelete@Patricia
ReplyDeleteWelcome to my blog.
There must be an Arabic shop in Gloucestershire. They are every where.
Did you live in Beirut or was it a holiday?
You forgot Freekeh, or ferik! Which you can buy in Middle Eastern Shops. SUCH a delicious ingredient and it always wows people when I make it with lamb. How Syrian peasants would laugh to see middle-class Londoners raving over their burnt green wheat!
ReplyDelete@Anonymous
ReplyDeleteThat was done on purpose. I love freekeh. One of the best and most unique flavours of Syria. I thought about it but decided to give it its own post. I just need to get around to cook it and write it up.
Hi,
ReplyDeleteI am planning a Shopping trip to stock Syrian Spices (specially the things for Mohammara!).
Which is best and cheap : Green Valley or Damas Gate? West side of the City is best as I come to Marylebone.
Advice appreciated.
@Anonymous
ReplyDeleteDamas gate is cheaper but green valley have more variety.
Some products are only available in one or the other but these are only very specific few things.
Hi Kano,
ReplyDeleteThanks.
I went to the Green Valley. Though it is clean and organized place, service and customer treatment is almost Nil and more to the rude...
I tried to ask them of Red Pepper paste for Mohammara, but answer is they never sell it there! So I might try Dams gate next time.
@anonymous
ReplyDeletebad service and rude staff is the norm in Edgware road, unfortunately.
can you please give the names of the shops you have bought akkawi from in London?
ReplyDeleteI visited Green Valley today and they didn't have it.
can you please give the names of the shops you have bought akkawi from in London?
ReplyDeleteI visited Green Valley today and they didn't have it.
@Tee
ReplyDeleteWelcome to my blog!
Try Damas Gate at Shepherds Bush.